Saturday, March 1, 2014

March 10: Fortaleza, Brazil


Fortaleza is the state capital of Ceará, located in Northeastern Brazil. With a population close to 2.55 million (metropolitan region over 3.6 million), Fortaleza is the 5th largest life of the city city in Brazil.
 [source: Wikipedia]

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MAASDAM passed the length of the city from south to north before turning hard to port, entering the harbor under cloudy skies.  While the ship was tying up, we noticed a large number of wind turbine blades on the pier as well as three wind turbines on the jetty.  According to one authoritative(?) source, a large German manufacturer uses Fortaleza as a staging area for the construction of wind turbines.  Note the size of the blades vis-a-vis the freight cars in front of them.

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TOUR: Fortaleza Highlights

Description
Located on the northeastern seaboard of Brazil, and capital of the State of Ceara, Forteleza is a light and airy city bordered by some of the country’s best beaches. This tour offers the highlights of the region including a visit to the interesting neo-Classical cathedral, with its beautiful stained-glass windows, and the José de Alencar Theater—a memorial to the famous poet from Ceará. Also, enjoy a panoramic drive via a palm-fringed beach and through Aldeota—the sophisticated residential area of Fortaleza. A visit to the Mercado Central (Central Market) gives you time to browse among the delicate, handmade lace and embroidery for which the region is noted. Native hammocks and craftwork can also be purchased here at very reasonable prices. Your last stop is at the metallic bridge, which numbers among the major attractions of the city. The old iron construction is covered with a wooden roof and is known for having the most beautiful sunset views in Brazil.
[source:  MAASDAM cruise website]

Our Experience
Before we even left the pier our guide was explaining that there were some things we could not see and detours we would need to make as the city prepared to be one of the destinations for the World’s Cup soccer games hosted by Brazil.  From what we saw, Fortaleza has a lot to get done in approximately 90 days, but no one seemed to be working too hard at it.  And adding to the list of things we could not see, it being a Monday, museums were closed.  Could it be we were on a highlights tour devoid of highlights?

Our first destination was an abandoned, uninteresting, graffiti-covered lighthouse.  (It looks better from afar; the picture below was taken from the ship.)  Fortunately it was just a drive-by “highlight”.  We then drove into the city on poorly maintained roads through shabby neighborhoods with little of interest to see.  To keep the upbeat tour tempo going, it started to rain. 
As mentioned in the previous paragraph, some of the areas we drove through we a bit sketchy, but everywhere we went security was obviously a primary consideration.  All upscale buildings were guarded.  In commercial areas it was not atypical to see a wall topped like this one with chain-link fence…and concertina wire…and electrification. 
In the city, we stared out through rain-blurred windows at a memorial to some past Brazilian leader – another drive-by highlight. 
We of course were not lucky enough to just drive by the Mercado Central - the inevitable crafts market.
Once back on the bus, it was a short trip to the main cathedral.  Fairly ordinary on the outside, the simplicity of the design on the inside provided a surprisingly pronounced sense of tranquility and serenity. 
Returning to the bus, the serenity continued; the speaker system used by the guide failed. 

We disembarked at the cultural center assured that after walking through it we would find another bus waiting for us with an operable PA system.  So walk through the center we did, followed but standing, sitting, leaning, staring at Christ the Redeemer, reading signs and wondering about a seemingly abandoned food cart, all while waiting for said other bus. 
The bus eventually did turn up.  It seems that the office that had told the guide to change buses and told the bus driver to pick us up neglected to tell the guide or bus driver how to get in touch with each other, where specifically to meet, etc. resulting in the bus driving by us twice before the guide and driver established contact.

Our next stop was a pier sticking out into the harbor from which we would have a view up and down the shoreline.
We boarded the bus for a last time for the return trip to the ship.  We drove along the shoreline with the beach, night market, yacht club, fish market and other sights on the left side and a wall of high-rise apartments and hotels in boring succession on the right.  This was consistent with the left side of the bus having the more interesting views throughout the tour.  We were on the right side.

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The open configuration of the harbor and the direction of the swell had kept MAASDAM in motion all day.  To mitigate the motion, the captain lowered the outboard anchor.  When it came time to leave we hauled the anchor, then untied from the pier.  The ship sailed just after sunset.  

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Lesser measures having failed, while we were off on the tour the crew of MAASDAM was putting in a lot of time and hard work cleaning the ship in an effort to stop the spread of the gastro-intestinal illness that has haunted the ship since Rio.  The situation was made worse by a passenger with this highly communicable illness wandering the ship for three days rather than inconveniencing himself/herself by staying in their room.  Another passenger did the same thing for a full day before admitting to the condition.  Hopefully the hard work of the crew and the ongoing campaign to “wash your hands – wash your hands – wash your hands” left this bug ashore in Fortaleza.

Pam & I are good about washing our hands when aboard, using hand sanitizer both on board and ashore and generally being cautious, so we significantly mitigate our likelihood of getting the GI illness, but the concern that we could nevertheless get it casts a bit of a shadow over our activities. 

Okay, enough of that and concluding this post on a positive note, we are excited about having three days of R&R as we cross the equator and begin steaming up the Amazon.  We will then have six consecutive days of activities ashore in various ports along the river. 

1 comment:

  1. As I said in an e-mail to you, in the 1960s when ashore at this port there were no tourist and plenty of Army walking around with auto weapons. My fondest memory is sitting in an open bar under spreading trees and looking out over the tropical Atlantic. Still remember that day.

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